After the overnight in Bengalaru, we flew to Cochin where we’d arranged a two-day package that included an overnight on a houseboat – our Christmas present to ourselves, (from us and my sister – thank you Smoo!). The package was a bit pricey, but really well coordinated and it all felt incredibly indulgent. 😀
We were picked up at the airport and driven through small, tropical towns towards our first Kerala destination, Kumarakom. It was funny to see things like houses, gas stations and shops in the midst of what – to my inexperienced eye – looked rather like a jungle. It seems like the plant life in that part of Kerala definitely has the upper hand. As buildings and concrete tends to encroach upon any greenery in large cities, so the flora seemed to be crowding out all the man-made structures in the towns leading up to the Kerala backwaters.
After driving for well over an hour into the increasingly lush landscape, our car took a turn onto a narrow dirt path flanked by rice paddies on the right and the start of the backwaters on the left. We bumped along until we came to a simple but lovely hotel at the edge of the peninsula where we spent the night. Highlights that stand out in my mind:
-Enjoying the soft breeze on the roof of a boat during a “sunset cruise”. As the sun disappeared beneath the horizon, we watched as one by one, hundreds of massive fruit bats winged slowly out of the palm forest and flew out above the backwaters.
-Dinner of Karimeen (pearl fish – a typical Kerala dish) in the outdoor restaurant. Fun was when the power cut out and we were left in the pitch black, listening to all the sounds of the critters in and around the backwaters. 🙂
-Our room came with a very effective air conditioner. The exhaust for the AC went directly into the bathroom. After 5 minutes of the AC being on, the bathroom was hotter than an oven! Built in sauna! 😉
In the morning of Christmas Eve, our houseboat arrived to pick us up. It came with a three-man crew; two guys to man the ship and a cook who were all lovely. The boat was massive and I was excited by our on-board bedroom – one of the cleanest places we’ve stayed in India! 🙂
It was a bit surreal trip being on a houseboat again – I had done an overnight on one towards the end of the group trip and it had been such a highlight of that portion of my travels. It was wonderful to be able to share it with Roman as well but my mind did wander to the wonderful folks I traveled with during my first three weeks in India.
My thoughts were also very much with my family in the States. Christmas is my favorite holiday and I love celebrating it with them at home. But the past few years I’ve been in Switzerland for the holidays. Being on a boat in the tropics and knowing that they were all sharing in my nephew’s first Christmas, I felt further away than ever.
I know I am so blessed to be able to be doing this trip, to have the life that I do – I am so grateful for this. But sometimes I wonder how long it will be till I get to share Christmas with them again. Part of this big trip is about figuring out where to live next and daydreams of holidays with my family certainly factor into my speculation, but right now the journey is still feeling so new and I don’t have any sort of clarity on when I might next be passing out gifts from the under the tree at my parents’ house…
My pining aside, it was a magical Christmas Eve. The boat docked in a lagoon filled with water hyacinths and Roman and I watched the sun setting over the water and the fireflies emerge in the darkness. The peacefulness and splendor of the pristine nature were just amazing. Later in the evening we had a lovely meal on the boat, and were even visited by a group of local boys who sang us a very lively Christmas carol and passed out sweets. I have to say, the paper-mache Santa masks kind of gave me the creeps – felt a bit more like a visit from Halloween trick-or-treaters. 😉 Definitely a different Christmas! 🙂
Wildlife at the hotel in Kumarakom
Dragonfly at the water’s edge
The big blob in the middle of the shot is one of those massive fruit bats!
The picture quality is not great, but here it is cropped so you can get a better look
Christmas on the houseboat
Our houseboat pulling in! 🙂
Look at that clean, lovely bed! 🙂
Fishermen on the backwaters
Soda for sale
Docked for the night
Sunset on the backwaters
Trick or treat?
Water hyacinth detail. These plants were all over on the backwaters and I just loved them. Hundreds of the flowers were open in the morning sunshine on Christmas day. This photo was taken with the digital zoom on Roman’s camera from very far away, so the quality is not the best, but wanted a close up – I love the pattern on them, like a little flame on the top petal.